Why Fall Is the Best Time to Plant Trees in Dallas
Most people plant trees in spring, but fall is actually the better season in North Texas. Here is why — and how to do it right.
Why Fall Is the Best Time to Plant Trees in Dallas
Ask most people when to plant a tree and they will say spring. It makes intuitive sense — things are growing, the weather is warming up, and it feels like the right time to put something new in the ground.
But in Dallas, fall is almost always the better choice. Here is why — and how to make the most of the fall planting window.
The Case for Fall Planting in North Texas
The Roots Keep Growing Even When the Top Doesn't
When you plant a tree in fall, the above-ground portion of the tree goes dormant as temperatures drop. But the roots do not. Root growth continues as long as soil temperatures stay above about 40°F — and in Dallas, that means roots are actively establishing themselves through most of November, December, and even into January.
By the time spring arrives and the tree starts pushing new leaves and growth, it already has a much more developed root system than a tree planted in spring. That head start makes an enormous difference in how well the tree handles its first Dallas summer.
Cooler Temperatures Mean Less Stress
Planting is stressful for trees. Moving a tree from a nursery container to your yard disrupts its root system and forces it to adapt to new soil conditions. Doing that in the middle of a Dallas summer — when temperatures regularly exceed 100°F — puts the tree under enormous stress right from the start.
Fall planting means the tree gets to establish itself during the most forgiving part of the year. Cooler air temperatures reduce water demand, and the tree can focus its energy on root development rather than trying to survive the heat.
Winter Rainfall Does the Work for You
Dallas typically receives more rainfall in fall and winter than in summer. That natural precipitation helps new trees establish without requiring as much supplemental irrigation. You will still need to water during dry spells, but the overall irrigation burden is much lower than it would be for a spring-planted tree heading into its first summer.
You Get a Jump on Spring Growth
A tree planted in fall and given a winter to establish its roots will almost always outperform a tree planted in spring. Come March and April, your fall-planted tree will be ready to take off — pushing vigorous new growth from a well-established root system — while a spring-planted tree is still getting its footing. For guidance on which species to choose, see our guide on the best trees to plant in Dallas.
The Best Trees to Plant in Dallas This Fall
Large Shade Trees
Texas Live Oak — The best all-around shade tree for Dallas. Drought-tolerant, long-lived, and evergreen. Plant it where you want shade for the next 50 to 100 years.
Cedar Elm — Native to North Texas and extremely tough. Handles clay soil and drought better than almost any other large tree. Good fall color.
Shumard Red Oak — Fast-growing native oak with excellent fall color. More tolerant of urban conditions than many oaks.
Pecan — Texas's state tree and a great choice for larger properties. Provides shade, wildlife habitat, and of course, pecans.
Medium Trees
Texas Redbud — Spectacular pink-purple blooms in late winter. Grows well in partial shade and is perfectly sized for smaller yards.
Mexican Plum — White spring blooms, good fall color, and wildlife value. A great understory tree.
Possumhaw Holly — Technically a large shrub or small tree, but worth mentioning for its brilliant red berries that persist through winter and provide food for birds.
Trees to Avoid Planting in Fall
A few trees do better when planted in spring, including bald cypress and some tropical species. When in doubt, ask your nursery or give us a call — we are happy to advise on species selection for your specific site.
How to Plant a Tree Correctly
Getting the planting right is just as important as choosing the right tree. Here are the most common mistakes to avoid.
Dig the Right Hole
The hole should be two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper than the root ball is tall. You want the tree planted at the same depth it was growing in the container — or slightly higher, especially in clay soils that drain slowly.
A hole that is too deep is one of the most common planting mistakes. It causes the root flare (the point where the trunk meets the roots) to be buried, which leads to rot and long-term decline.
Do Not Amend the Backfill
This surprises a lot of people, but current research strongly recommends against amending the backfill soil with compost or other organic matter. When you fill the hole with amended soil, you create a "container effect" — the roots grow happily in the amended zone and then stop when they hit the native clay. Use the native soil to backfill, and let the roots adapt to the actual conditions they will be growing in.
Water Deeply at Planting
Give the tree a thorough, deep watering immediately after planting. You want to settle the soil around the roots and eliminate air pockets. Then water deeply once or twice a week for the first month, tapering off as temperatures cool.
Mulch Generously
Apply a 3- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch over the entire planting area, extending as far out as possible — at least to the edge of the canopy. Keep mulch 3 to 4 inches away from the trunk. Mulch is the single most beneficial thing you can do for a newly planted tree. Fresh wood chips from a tree trimming service are ideal — ask us about delivery when we're working in your area.
Stake Only If Necessary
Most trees do not need staking. A tree that moves slightly in the wind develops a stronger trunk than one that is rigidly staked. If the tree is in a very windy location or is top-heavy, use two stakes and flexible ties, and remove them after one year.
How Long Until the Tree Is Established?
The general rule is one year of establishment time for every inch of trunk diameter. A two-inch caliper tree (measured six inches above the ground) needs about two years of supplemental irrigation and care before it is truly established and can fend for itself.
During that establishment period, deep watering during dry spells is the most important thing you can do. Our guide on do Dallas trees need water in winter covers what to do once temperatures drop — newly planted trees are especially vulnerable during their first winter. Once established, most native and adapted trees can handle Dallas conditions with minimal intervention.
Ready to Plant?
If you are thinking about adding trees to your property this fall, Tree Crew can help with species selection, planting, and aftercare. We serve Dallas and all surrounding communities — give us a call at (972) 999-3627 for a free consultation. And if existing trees need to come down to make room, our tree removal service handles it cleanly before you plant.
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